Money Talk

CHOGM is over, I can tell without even looking at the meeting agenda.

The streets are packed with more people, the traffic jams make even short trips take hours, and the street children are back.

Dirty little kids with grubby clothes, sad eyes, and outstretched hands… life in Kampala has truly returned to normal. I don’t know how I feel when I see them. I am glad they are back - it beats them being held and mistreated in some government intuition or prison. These kids are survivors; they understand the life on the street and know how to live it. Unfortunately knowing that doesn’t make seeing them any easier.

Today I had another understanding on how difficult it is for the average person to survive in Kampala. There is such desperation for jobs, that employers get away with paying their workers next to nothing – or on some days, if they feel like it, nothing at all. But, people are so desperate that 2000 USH ($1.17 CAN) one day, and nothing the next, is better than nothing at all. But, surviving on 2000 USH* is an amazing feat.

For example my typical daily budget includes:
15,000 USH a night for the guesthouse,
1,800 USH for the transportation to-and-from the New Vision Newspaper,
300 USH for the milk and oatmeal I have for breakfast (I make it myself),
2,300 USH for a plate of matoke, rice, groundnut sauce, and chicken with a Miranda, at the Hospital Canteen,
500 for a rolex for dinner,

That doesn’t begin to take into account the products and items I use, like bug spray and sunscreen, on a daily basis.

So if I live with a friend for free, eat only two meals and walk most of the way to work (would probably take 1.5 hours), I could survive on 2000 USH. The worst part, many of these places that are paying their employees 2000 USH are making a lot more money.

Did I mention these working days are 12-14 hours? The rich get richer as the poor get poorer. The whole system shows the problem with the way capitalism works.

How is a student supposed to make money for school fees? What if a child gets sick, the parents can’t afford the hospital, or what becomes of a child when if the parent dies? 2000 USH a day doesn’t leave much for savings.

*An example of costs
500 USH is 6 ripe tomatoes or 10 small onions or a bag of sugar cane
600 USH will give you 30 seconds airtime to Canada on the MTN plan.
1000 USH is ½ Litre of whole milk or a bunch of sweet bananas
1200 USH is 1 kg local rice
1800 USH for a 2 kg bag of posho (white corn flour – a mashed potato like texture when cooked)
2,400 USH is a litre of fuel
14,800 is a cheap Indian meal for two at Masala Chat, my favourite restaurant in Kampala
67,000 is the cheapest cell phone, plus a 3,000 sim card

So the police are hooligans?

See if you can spot the difference. And the typos and random capitalizations are as they appeared in the paper.

The New Vision (known to be *slightly* in favour of the government) reported that

Hooligans beat up DP Members
A GANG of hooligans, commonly known as kanyamas, yesterday roughed up Democratic Party (DP) members as they tried to march to Kamwokya Market to address a rally.
The men, some of whom were chewing mairunji (khat), descended on the team near Namirembe Road enroute to Kamwyoka. The over 10 kanyamas, who emerged from Kisenyi, a slum, descended on the DP group and beat them up before a commuter taxi could whisk them away.
The secretary general of the Uganda Young Democrats (UYD), Samuel Muyizi, who was badly beaten in the scuffle, was rushed to the hospital.
Kenneth Kakande, the UYD vice-chairperson was also thumped by the men who caught up with him on Martin Road.
Kayigo, who claimed to be the group’s leader, said: “We do not want these people to come into our area because the Police will accuse us of causing insecurity.”
Calm was restored when Kampala Extra Police chief Edward Ochom and a Military Police team arrived at the scene. As the men retreated, the security officers nabbed one of them and whisked him to the Central Police Station.

[Note: to go from Namirembe Road to Martin you need to pass in front of Old Kampala Police station.]

One the other hand The Monitor (known to be *slightly* in favour of the opposition) reported that

Police Disperse DP demonstrators
As Queen Elizabeth II addressed Parliament yesterday morning, police were busy fighting protestors in downtown Kampala.
Police spent several hours battling members of the Democratic Party (DP) youth wing in Kisenyi for organizing a procession in an unrestricted area of Namirembe Road.
The Queen arrived in Uganda on Wednesday evening to open the CHOGM.
The scuffle began at around 1pm after Uganda Young Democrats (UYD) Secretary General Sam Muyizi ordered DP activists to move towards Kololo through the city centre contrary to police directives.
Kololo is the designated protest area during CHOGM.
Mr.. Muyizi was injured in the process. He was rushed to Mulago Hospital; UYD Vice President Kenneth Kakande was also beaten up.
Kampala Extra Regional Police Commander Edward Ochom said the DP members broke the rules.
The over 500 protestors were led by DP president General John Ssebaana. The party leader, however, melted away as the police advanced.

[Note: He must have been hiding with the gangs…]

Either
A. The DP group is having a really bad day, especially Samuel (alias Sam)
B. The police are actually part of a khat-chewing gang called Kanyamas
C. There are some inconsistencies in reporting

Question: Did the reporters even speak to the Police Commander? Because each paper called him something different and he apparently said something totally different to each one. I’m just asking – that’s all.

Making a bet

Two things I have had to get used to very quickly here, the first is being laughed at and second is the different way size is viewed.

As you learn Luganda, one of the dialects found in Uganda and the one most commonly spoken in Kampala, you are met with lots of laughter. My English tongue just can’t stay out of the way long enough to pronounce the long vowel-strewn words. The official language in Uganda is English, but only those people with a formal education speak English, everyone else uses the dialect of their particular tribe or clan. The worst part: Luganda won’t work outside of Kampala.

On the other hand to be larger here is not necessarily a bad thing. But to those of us who are us who are used to the North American ideal of thin being best, it can take some getting used to. For example, I am driving home with my special hire (taxi) on Friday night, we are stuck in traffic and making bets as to how long it will take to get back to Mengo hospital.

I say “I’ll bet you a Rolex (fried egg wrapped with a chapatti) that…” – and here I was cut off.

“Angela,” he said, “I don’t eat Rolexs, they will make me fat.”

“But I eat them all the time and I am only a little fat,” I reply.

I wait for the typical North American response to calling myself fat. And I wait. And wait. And wait.

There was clearly no response coming, so I launch into the concept of fishing for compliments and how western women want to hear they are not overweight, but look lovely.

I explain that I want him to say – “no you are not fat.”

“Oh,” he says, “You want me to lie.”

“No, that is not the point; it’s just the way it works.”

“But you are fat,” he says. I know he isn’t being mean and in fact I could take it as a compliment.

But I still can’t hear “you are fat” as positive so I tell him again how I really would prefer hearing that I am not large and jokingly add maybe I should be looking for another driver.

We finally reach an agreement that I am a good size and many Ugandan men would like the traditional built women.

Good thing, I was getting ready to swear off Rolexs for good, which is problematic as they are an excellent & cheap fast food option.

When it rains it pours

In Kampala when it rains it pours. That means when it floods entire areas of the city fall apart. Aside from people being washed away and drowning, and houses collapsing under the weight of the water, the top cause of deaths during floods is electrocution.

The water saturates the ground and then draws up the walls, doors and across the ceiling. From there it moves in to the electrical wiring. The unsuspecting person arrives home and (if they still have power) turn on their lights. At that point their entire house becomes a conductor.

With the many deaths in the city, I was surprised the focus of an article on the floods was the inconvenience the flooding caused President Museveni. Many of the roads around the lower areas of the city were flooded with 2-3 feet of water – water that accumulated within a few hours. Museveni’s motorcade was stopped for 15 minutes on his way to the airport. A 15 min delay and it makes the news. Apparently he got out, looked around, pointed to all the rubbish and said it was the trash that caused the drains to be blocked.

Too bad there isn’t much infrastructure for litter removal. With the exception of CHOGM preparations, where certain city streets are cleaned regularly, the litter just piles up. I haven’t seen a single garbage can, in a shop or on the street, since I have arrived. There is also no ability to recycle, so plastic bottles are everywhere.

Unfortunately as the flood water resides, likely so will any public desire to keep the streets clean.

The SPC in Kampala

There has been a distinct lack of good internet everywhere lately. Even the fast wireless in the orthopaedic clinic has been so slow; I had to give up on loading e-mail after 22 minutes. The question: Are you ready for CHOGM?

In other CHOGM related news, I was told a story on Sunday that makes me worry a little. The SPC are the police brought on board to control “the people” during CHOGM. They arrest for being in somewhere at the wrong time, throwing litter on the ground, or selling goods on Kampala road (and until recently everyone threw out their garbage and sold goods on Kampala road). They were only given a month or so training before being handed a gun and a baton and told to patrol Kampala. There are rumours flying that the government doesn’t have the funds to pay them, which will leave 1000+ angry, untrained officers with guns at the end of CHOGM.

But that’s not the worrying news.

An SPC officer was supposed to bring in a suspect, so he marched into the local area and demanded the people tell him the location of the suspect. They were mostly ignoring him. Rumour has it he wanted to make the people listen/fear him so he shot randomly into the crowd. A man was wounded in the leg and a young girl (13 or 14) was killed. The crowd, sick and tired of being repressed by untrained violence, responded with mob justice and beat the officer within an inch of his life.

I haven’t seen anything on this in the local papers, just something I heard from a fairly in-the-know friend of mine. It speaks volumes to the tension the Ugandan people have been put under for the preparation of CHOGM. Ugandans for the most part are friendly, and peaceful, remembering past years of violent repression.

Are you ready for CHOGM?

Are you ready for CHOGM?
The billboards are everywhere. Other signs tell Kampala citizens that 1.6 billion eyes will be on Uganda for the Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting. The queen will be in Uganda for the first time since before the Idi Amin era. I really don’t have the heart to tell people here, that significantly less eyes will be on Uganda, and their chances of actually seeing the Queen are infinitely smaller then that.

If Uganda had been passed over as the location, then CHOGM would have been held in Canada, as we were the other finalist country. Still, how many Canadians have heard of CHOGM let alone would pay any attention if it had been in Canada.

Also, I bet you there would be some significant differences in the preparation. I bet the Canadian city that would play host, would not have plans to close the road to the airport to any traffic other than delegates. This is the worst rumour we have heard so far, as one of the housemates is trying to fly-out during that time.

Places where the queen MAY visit are having structures hastily built. The other day the newspaper contained an article on a resort in Queen Elizabeth Park (a game reserve) that was having a room renovated for her majesty – to the tune of several million shillings (thousands of Canadian dollars). At the Kasubi tombs, one of Kampala’s only tourist attractions, the structure that had always been used as the community health centre, was torn down to be rebuilt – fit for a queen.

Roads the queen might travel on are being torn up and fixed, while feeder roads are being left in appalling conditions, with higher traffic volumes due to detours. Matatu taxis (the local buses) are pulled of the streets leaving masses of humanity without methods of transport. Two reasons I have heard: Too much traffic for the delegates to be able to get around and the Queen won’t like the dust. The Matatus that have been left on the streets are taking the opportunity to increase their fares. The ride Wilbur’s (see article on CBHC) daughter takes home from school was 500 USH, yesterday they were asking for 2000 USH. She didn’t have it and had to walk for hours to get home.

Can you imagine Ottawa taking all the buses off the road for the parliament being in session, or a better example closing the metro and taking taxis off the street whenever the UN was in session in New York?

Fruit stands, phone card booths, and boda-boda stages are being ripped up and moved, the area they have vacated being converted into something “nicer to look at”.

I have had heard the rumour that men who go downtown will be asked to wear ties in the Queen’s honour, even though she will probably never go downtown during her entire stay (of two or three days).Finally, despite the lack of transportation, ordinary Ugandans are at risk of being rounded up if they are walking alone at night. The police’s theory? Fewer people in Kampala for CHOGM will mean less of a problem and easier control during the meetings.

So the question of are YOU ready for CHOGM is picking up more than excitement, it is also becoming the brunt of many jokes and frustrations.

Brace yourself – CHOGM is in less than two weeks.

News from Uganda Nov. 7

Two former Ministers of Health on are on trial for misappropriating money designated for a child immunization program. Last week the defence lawyers walked out of court after their objections to how the prosecution was questioning the two went unheard. Many people here believe the trial is more for show, the government and courts showing the world they will not stand for corruption, even as more corruption occurs.


Lords Resistance Army (LRA) representatives are in Kampala to meet with representatives with the government to further discuss peace negotiations between themselves and the government forces. This is the first time some of these LRA members have been back to Uganda in 10 years, having been hiding across the border in DRC and Sudan.


In Alchoi Region, in the north of Uganda, MP’s okay use of small doses of DDT in houses for mosquito control. This was the original use of DDT, and it became known as one of the dirty dozen pesticides after widespread spraying began affecting the environment in North America.


An UPDF army private was sentenced to death by hanging after shooting his girlfriend 32 times. Dennis Omona Anywar said he killed her because she was stealing money from him and gave him HIV.


The European Union has decided to increase direct funding to Northern Uganda, thus cutting back on funding to NGOs. The 22 billion shilling grant (12.9 million US) is earmarked from those regions beginning to recover from the 18+ years of civil strife. The EU ambassador thinks the direct funding will strengthen local programs but is warning officials against embezzling the funds. Should be interesting to see how this works out.


Not exactly Ugandan news but important to Ugandans was Saturday’s match for Manchester United against Arsenal. They tied.

Notes on Uganda

• Security guards, police, and military all carry very large guns on a regular basis.
• KPC is Kampala Pentecostal Church on Kampala road and makes an excellent marker for many other locations.
• Traffic here rivals Bangkok and crossing streets in Phnom Penh is very good practice for Kampala.
• Look both ways before crossing the road, even if you are on a one way street.
• A taxi park is an adventure in itself.
• When it comes to boda-boda rides, know that there are safer ways to travel, but also realize your driver also wants to come out of the experience alive (you hope). Best bet, until you are used to them, just close your eyes, keep your knees in close and hang-on tight.
• People are so friendly. As you walk around downtown Kampala people will always take time to point you in a direction, even if they have no idea what you are looking for.
• Pediatric medications for HIV don’t exist. Adult ARVs and Septrin are simply broken in half (and half the adult amount is prescribed).
• Children, for the most part, are allowed to run around where ever they want and without adult supervision thus the significant child abductions rate.
• Beeping someone is totally acceptable; a beep is calling their phone but hanging up before they pick up. They will then call you – thus paying to talk to you. Usually this is done when one person is nearly out of minutes. It’s best not to do it constantly or you will find people will not return your call. Texting is also popular (and cheaper than a call).
• Kampala is a great mixing pot many different cultures (and thus) foods. There is a number of good ethnic restaurants from Indian to Lebanese, and samosas are offered at most canteens. Samosas are the Cuban peso pizza of Uganda – cheap (about $0.05 each) and delicious, although probably not the most healthy offering.
• Matoke, steamed plantain, must be eaten fresh – if it hangs around too long it becomes an inedible lump.
• School girls have hair about ½ cm long. Schools restrict them girls hair length saying they will spend more time on their hair than their studies.
• CHOGM (Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting) preparations are becoming a pain! Roads are randomly ripped up, power goes out for 20 hour stretches and people (and buildings) are moved. Billboards ask “CHOGM: Are you ready?” My guess? Not really.
• People in Uganda (both muzungu and Ugandan) regularly show up uninvited and unannounced and stay for long periods of time. For the most part it is great, but every once and a while you will find yourself at a complete loss at what to say and have no idea how to ask them to leave.
• You can make most kids days by stopping to say “Hi” or waving. Of course as they get to recognize you they come running at you for a high five, hug or to hold your hand and follow you to your next destination.
  

Also, a very unique experience…

When I was out with CBHC on Friday we went to the Kasubi tombs, the place where the kings of Uganda are buried. The tombs are tended by the descendants of the Kings and their wives. We went to treat these people and I became the first Muzungu to step inside a caretaker’s house since 1894. It was a huge deal. I was given a Buganda (tribe) name of Nabatanzi, as well as a grandmother and aunt. It was all very wonderful. We ate delicious matoke and groundnut sauce!

Outpost

Not all healthcare takes place in Kampala’s many (for fee and for free) clinics and hospitals. Mengo Hospital is the base for one of the many Community Based HealthCare (CBHC) units. Yesterday, the coordinators, Olivia and Margret, asked me along as they headed to the streets and suburbs of the city. The ministry of health is in the middle of a mass immunization campaign; all women of child bearing age are to receive the tetanus vaccine.

The morning was spent visiting two schools near Mengo hospital. Women who worked at these schools were being given the opportunity to receive the vaccine. One of the schools we stopped at was a maze of buildings and broken walls. It looked like the plan had been to have a three story building. The first floor is finished with tile walls, windows and electricity. The second floor has brick walls and a roof, and the third floor only has the hint that walls were suppose to go up.

At noon, the team, headed to one of their outposts in the district of Kawaala. It is only 20 minutes from the city however, as soon as the pavement ends so does the similarities. Lush and green, red mud roads, and cement buildings with tin roofs. The clinic roof presents an interesting problem because when it rains it is so loud you cannot hear what the person next to you is saying.

One of the highlights was meeting Charles, a clinician from Mengo hospital. He lives in the area and met us at the outpost. We have just spent the last 10 minutes bumping down a muddy and rut filled dirt road when we arrive at the clinic. I get out of the landcruiser, an important vehicle for this line of work, and come face to face with Charles, who is wearing a lab coat. The lab coat’s tag reads – Vancouver Island Heath Authority. It was such a flash from home. I am pretty sure my mom wears the same coat when she works at Saanich Peninsula hospital, around the corner from my house! It was brilliant.

The outpost is definitely a full service clinic. Babies were immunized and registered, and mother’s vitamin A and tetanus shots. There was HIV testing and counselling. Olivia ran the basic clinic/pharmacy handing out medications from painkillers for headaches to antibiotics for infections. For five hours the team of four from Mengo, with the help of local traditional birth attendants trained in public health, saw nearly 90 patients.

The community leader met with us for a while, he is a fascinating man, knowing what is best for his community, yet being totally aware of the details of world issues. He told me we would have met last year at the AIDS conference in Toronto, but his invitation was lost in the mail and he didn’t receive it until after the event. (Remind me not to mail anything home.) He has invited me back to the community as often as I’d like – I will take him up on that in the future.