Christmas in Uganda

Christmas around the world seems to have two things in common; family and eating. And eating, and eating, and then when think you are too full to move, you eat something sweet.

This Christmas I spent with my Ugandan family, in their village Ndalike. Ndalike is a beautiful place – it is that stereotypical vision of Africa with dirt paths leading to houses full of bright-eyed children. It is in the middle of nowhere of Kamuli district. We took a taxi to Kamuli town from the old taxi park in Kampala before transferring to get to Namwendwa town. From there it was boda-bodas down narrow paths to Sister Dora’s house. I couldn’t stop smiling, I felt like I was in a parade. As we passed people on bicycles, or in their front yards they would wave and shout Jambo (which is weird because they don’t speak any other Swahili).

We arrived on Christmas Eve Day, and after travelling for 6 hours spent the afternoon napping on mats in the shade. Life doesn’t get much more laid back, well at least for me, the visitor, everyone else had chores. Despite my begging to help the only chores I got to do was rinse dishes, and even that was only once. The other ‘kids’ in the family had to heat water, go for firewood, peel vegetables, go for water, and help keep the house/yard clean. Although I wasn’t officially allowed to help, I tagged along for most things.

The bore hole for water is a 10 minute walk from the house. Most people have bicycles to make the trip shorter and be able to carry more water. In Kamuli district, unlike in the Buganda Kingdom where Kampala is located, women can ride bicycles. So often on the walk to the water pump you hear a bell and a woman goes by on her bicycle with her Gomez (the traditional dress) flapping in the wind and jerry cans bumping together over the rough path. The bicycles are not like North American bicycles either, these things are heavy, but I think they could withstand a nuclear disaster.

We went to mass on Christmas morning. Dora, Dez, Joe, and I were suppose to leave at 9:45 to be there for the 10 am service, we left at 10:20 and we were still on time. I think it was just like a Catholic mass at home. There was singing and praying, although I can’t be sure because the entire service was in Lusoga – another of the Ugandan dialects. I was the only mzungu in the church; well actually I was the only mzungu in the whole community.

So of course I was trying to prove myself by playing football with the boys, barefoot, and dressed in a skirt for church. By the time we were finished many of the kids in the surrounding area were watching in amazement. It was so fun although when I finished my feet hurt. The ball would end up in weeds or on rocks and you sprint after it full speed, it was when the adrenalin stopped pumping that you realize running on rocks was a bad plan.

We ate matoke, meat, chicken, rice, pasta, sweet potatoes, groundnuts, and chapattis. And for breakfast Mandas! Mandas are the Ugandan spin on deep-fried bread dough that is seen in every culture. They are like the Canadian doughnut hole, the Slovenian crostile or the Hungarian langos and equally delicious.

Nights were one of the best parts of the time spent in Ndalike. We would sit on mats on the concrete, which was still warm from the sun shining all day, and watch the stars come out. The night sky was unlike anything I have ever seen, the stars are so bright when there is no electricity for miles and miles. Then after dinner we would heat water for a hot bath and climb into bed. It was so wonderful and was one of the best sleeps I have had since arriving in Kampala; quiet, comfortable, and surrounded by a mozzie net, so safe too.

My time in Ndalike came to an end after only three days (even after I stayed one extra day), and the trip back was spent planning exactly how soon I could return.