Wednesday, April 30, 2008

Our rising food costs

A friend of mine asked me about the ‘growing food crisis’ - ie riots in Haiti, food prices going up - and am I seeing anything on the ground here in Kampala.

It’s a good question and we are definitely seeing the effects. In fact it was at the news meeting last Wednesday that I realized how fast food prices here were rocketing. Firstly many of the men were complaining that the price of meat had jumped sh 1,500 (nearly 50 per cent), and bread has gone up also. It hadn’t really effected me directly, but then the place were I have been buying milk a litre went from sh 700 to sh 1,000 ($0.41 to $0.52 CAN) Not a big deal to me, but a really big deal to many of the local people that now can only afford half-a-litre.

And Uganda is not supporting itself with a lot of products. Sure we have local produce vendors, butchers, and dairy stalls, but on a grander scale, Uganda is as depended on what is going on in the world as most of the other developing nations. And for sure when the problems get worse, then it’s the developing world that will bare the brunt of it.

The World Trade Organization tends to favour the developed world and many countries have trade embargos slapped on them if the government so much as attempts to help the agriculture off the ground. Not like Canada, where a quota system is applied to the dairy and poultry industry without punishment. It’s also why the BC softwood lumber thing goes on and on. The WTO can’t do much without the USA permission. That means the farmers here can’t ever grow enough for their own country let alone enough to looking after East Africa.

Now I realize I just made a very complex issue far too simple, but that’s the bare bones.

Monday, April 28, 2008

Checking my taps

Yesterday I learned there is something worse than not having running water in your house. It is having running water in your house for an afternoon before it stops again.

Yesterday afternoon, I saw the toilet bowl had filled itself, so for kicks I turned on the tap. It worked! I washed dishes with water from the tap, had a shower and was able to flush the toilet and watch it refill.

I was so careful thinking that the water might run out or something. But it was there all afternoon. I went out for a while and came back. It had stopped running.

I thought maybe when I woke up this morning it would be back. I was wrong. I keep turning the taps in desperate hope only to be disappointed over and over again.

The worst part is I feel guilty about being frustrated about my lack of water. In reality I have it good – I can fill my jerry cans from the tap in the compound, and in the middle of the night the water usually comes on long enough to fill the toilet tank. Other people in the neighbourhood have to make a long trek to get water (see post here).

I have it good, I know I do, but I would love to see water running out of my taps again!

Excuse me, I have to go check.

Some Things Never Change…

Since arriving in Uganda a few things have changed for me. One of those is no longer feeling upset or sad when I see children begging, instead I feel anger at the parents that dump their one-year-olds on the side of the road to beg. I feel anger at the government for having no place for the children, if children are neglected or abused parents go to jail, and the kids? They either live alone, with relatives, or move to the prison with their parents.

But, that is an entirely different rant and a bit of a tangent. Of the things that never change:

  • My heart will always break when I walk past Nasolo Ward (the children’s unit) at Mengo hospital and see a mother outside, alone, sobbing.
  • I will always be angry when a taxi driver tries to charge me extra – thinking either I am rich and don’t care or I am stupid and don’t know better.
  • I will always laugh and wave when primary school kids see me, and wave. They call out “Muzungu” until I turn and return the wave.
  • I will hate walking in the thick red mud after the rain, especially in sandals and especially in Owino and the taxi parks, for sure nothing is grosser. My problem isn’t so much the mud but what mixed in with it.
  • I will always be hungry when I smell, see or hear a rolex cooking.
  • It will always get my back up when I hear whites refer to things as ‘African’. Listening to Sky News the other day it was playing a feed from the UK parliament and one of the MPs was talking about something and he said, “Would you rather have ethanol in your cars or bread in African’s stomachs.” I really had no idea what he was talking about but I was insulted on behalf of all my Ugandan friends who put bread (and much more) in their own stomachs!

Friday, April 25, 2008

When in Rome....

From the New Vision

Breaking Ugandan social customs
Thursday, 17th April, 2008






By Angela Hill


AFTER living in Uganda for nearly eight months, I have managed to keep my social faux pas to a minimum. I was not always socially aware and I am sure I insulted more than one person after my arrival.

The first thing I got used to was a handshake that lasted an entire conversation. One of the administrators at the hospital where I was staying introduced himself to me and we shook hands. I started to let go, but he held firm. Jerking my hand away seemed rude, so it just hung there.

Now, I find myself doing the same to other bazungu (white people), until I notice the look of curiosity on their faces.
The biggest mistake I made was refusing food.

I had not been feeling well and the amount of food piled on the plate was too much. I politely said “No, thank you, maybe I can have some later.” What would have been perfectly acceptable back home, led to the longest lecture I have received on how rude it was.

The cook’s anger and hurt lasted two days. I learned never to refuse food.
A couple of secrets I learned for dodging food:

l Sitting near children. Most of them are willing to eat a little more matooke (green bananas) or chicken.

l Helping yourself in a buffet style setting.
Another of my early mistakes was buying food and eating it on the go. In Canada, it is common to have coffee or tea in a mug on your way to work as you munch a biscuit or bun.

One woman said: “Boy, you must be hungry.” I smiled and replied that I was. Then a friend told me it was not okay to walk and eat. I was embarrassed.
A custom I found easiest to adapt to was eating with my hands.

In Canada, I am always picking at my meals with my fingers and my mother smacks my hands. Imagine my delight when I realised it was okay here!
There have been other things that, with time, I have subconsciously adapted to.

Back home, I could be described as a feminist. Here, I learned that Baganda women are expected to kneel when greeting older, respected relatives or their husbands.

Initially, I was outraged, but as time passed, even I involuntarily drop to my knees. If I cannot, for example, in a taxi, I lower my head. However, when I see a young woman on her knees in the mud, my inner feminist cries.

The most difficult cultural difference to get used to is how body shape and size are viewed. I am not huge by any standard, but I am tall and not a size two, which due to a North American upbringing, makes me sensitive to my size.

Comments such as: “Wow, I bet your mother is as huge as you are,” which I received from a well-intentioned friend, cannot be taken as a compliment. To be larger here is not necessarily a bad thing.

My male Ugandan friends say I am a good size and many Ugandan men would love me. And trust me, they do. While walking downtown, they call out: “Muzungu, you’re my size.”

The final thing I got used to was not getting worked up over things in public. If I was manhandled or spoken to at home the way I am here, I would lose my temper and tell the person off. Here, I was taught to hold my tongue and walk past.

This is unfortunate as the average boda boda rider would receive some choice comments from me. “No, it is not okay to run a red light at Clock Tower,” and “I know the cost from the Old Park to Nandos isn’t sh5,000,” don’t quite sum up the frustration I am feeling.

Occupational Safety

Being a journalist has some distinct occupational hazards. These seem to be magnified in a foreign country. I’m not talking about threats, muzzling of the press, or operating illegally – although those are definitely concerns. I am talking about how whenever you talk to someone, you make friends.

It doesn’t matter if you want them or not.

While working for the university press I had to interview an engineering student about a project he was working on. He asked me to dinner, the next week a movie, and then to his parents place – I politely declined. He eventually stopped calling.

In Uganda it is a thousand times worse. Most of us girls have a rule about handing our phone numbers to strange men – we don’t do it. However, when you are a journalist, your number is on your card. Good news to follow up stories, bad news if those stories involve men.

The head of a fairly high-ranking Ministry of Health department calls to see how I am (and invites me to his village), the subject of an aid story has asked me to dinner, and now I am starting to fear handing out my business card.

Wednesday, April 23, 2008

The Working Girls

So as I mentioned before, I recently spent some time in Katuna. This is a tiny little border town, a strip of lodges, bars and restaurants, on the Rwanda-Uganda border. It used to be a bustling place, but in early January the truckers stopped parking because thieves had begun siphoning fuel.

No truckers means no money, restaurants that saw 50 – 100 people a day get 20, if they are lucky. The lodges are empty and the beer bottles remain untouched.

A population that is really being effected are the commercial sex workers. These ladies were making between sh 50,000 – sh 100,000 a night ($29 - $59 CAN), and having both “shorts” and overnight customers. Now, sex is sold for sh 1000 (less than a dollar), and the women alternate their nights banging on the truck doors of the few braver truckers that chance it and avoiding the thugs that knock on their doors looking for money.

Soon they will be evicted and follow the truckers to their new stops in Kabale and elsewhere.

Katuna needs a lot of security, and the thieves arrested, but due to corruption it's not happening. Not only do the trucks need protection but the citizens. If something doesn't change soon Katuna will die.

On a more light hearted note, the girls are all exceptionally charming. As jokes were translated back and forth I was put at ease and quickly formed a bond with these woman, despite my inital nervousness.

And surreal Ugandan moment number (I don’t know I can’t count that high): Hope, one of the women, thinks I have a great stomach. I honestly could have kissed the woman – my body, one of envy? That was a first, and it was great!!

Fast Buses

So I have broken another of the Canadian rules/helpful pieces of advice. It is said (or perhaps written somewhere) that when travelling out of Kampala you are to take the Post Bus, that’s it! Definitely not Horizon, or gateway and definitely not a taxi.

Well on more than one occasion I have taken a taxi for short hops – to Luwero and Kamuli – where the post bus doesn’t go. I took GaaGaa Bus from Arua, but they haven’t crashed in the last six months (a GOOD safety record), and Jaguar to Kigali (the safest and again no post bus).

On the recent trip to Lake Bunyonyi, I had to get to Kabale and a slow bus departing at 8am wasn’t appealing to me. So, I took the Jaguar bus headed for Kigali. No problems save for running out of gas…. twice. How a bus runs out of petrol twice truly escapes me.

The trip back was significantly sketchier. I had spent the day in Katuna (the border town – more on that later) and arrived back in Kabale at 3:30pm. It looked like the only option that faced me to get back to work on time on Wednesday was to find a place to stay then catch the 2 am Gateway. I’d heard the horror stories about Gateway and this was not a pleasing option, but what is a girl to do? So as the person I had caught a lift with pulled into the parking lot of Gateway a bus pulled up. The guy selling tickets yelled sh 15,000 and I joined the stampeed of people trying to get out of town.

The conductor tried to charge me sh 20,000. I began to throw such a fit that the poor guy quickly handed over my balance and avoided me the rest of the trip. I hope I taught him a lesson about trying to make a quick sh 5,000 off a muzungu.

Then I settled in for the 7-8 hour ride. Knowing the first leg – to Mbarara – would take about 3 hours. An hour and 45 minutes later we arrived, and we hit Masaka at the 3.5 hour mark. The Amahoro bus driver moved like a bat out of hell. It is always bad news when the locals around you are alternately yelling for the driver to slow down and praying.

We would have been in Kampala (and I eating for the first time since morning) at 8:35 pm (exactly 5 hours after leaving Kabale) had we not run out of fuel. Indeed the crazy driving was all for not as we sat for the better part of an hour watching every vehicle we past, pass us. A man was sent off with jerry cans, and 15 minutes after he returned with petrol we arrived in Kampala.

I would love to get on transport just once in this country that: doesn’t try to screw me, isn’t run by criminals, and travels safely. One of these three would be great, all three a miracle.

Did I learn a lesson? Not really, but I will definitely avoid Amahoro – unless I am going to Bujumbura, Burundi – as it is the only bus that goes there.

Lake Bunyonyi

I spent last weekend on Lake Bunyonyi, it is the deepest lake in the world – with its deepest end being 900m – and the scenery is described as a scene from the Hobbit. A description I definitely agree with. The boda boda from Kabale slowly climbs this huge switchback over a ravine and suddenly you read the top of the hill and the lake is revealed.

It was a moment that made me gasp in delight.

See why?








Update from the Surgery

Quick reminder the Surgery is the local expat oriented medical centre in Kampala
Dr. Stockly, the tropical medicine doctor is lovely.

He says I have Giardia.

But he was nice about it - and gave me the cheap, WHO recommended, treatment, unlike the other doctor who guess it might be Giardia wanted me to start the sh 45,000 treatment and charged me sh 20,000 for her guesses.

Two tabs of Albendezole a day for five days.

"It's a bit like giving candy to the kiddies," he says doling out the meds, and popping one in his mouth in the process.

He's right - you suck on them, and they are sweet. I have definitely taken worse!

Friday, April 18, 2008

The House

For those of you keeping track...

The cockroaches in my house are gone,
The walls are now white,
The whole place is clean,
The toilet flushes and the shower drains,
I can get water from the compound,
I have power (almost) all the time,
My patio is the perfect place to sit in the afternoon....

Yay! My house is livable!

Thursday, April 17, 2008

Angela attempts a commentary

The new seven deadly sins: Who determines the gravity?

Sunday, 6th April, 2008

By Angela Hill

HAVING pride, envy, gluttony, lust, anger, greed, or sloth, used to be the main concerns of Catholics wanting to go to heaven without spending time in purgatory, but the list of sins just got longer.

In fact, the list doubled when the Vatican recorded seven new sins earlier this month. While the new sins are decidedly less vague than the originals ones, I think they are likely to face more questions and greater opposition.

The newest seven sins are: polluting the environment, being obscenely rich, dealing drugs, abortion, social injustice, engineering genes, and engaging in cross-generational sex.

The first question I heard was: “What does being obscenely rich mean? Does it mean you just have lots of money, or you got the money in obscene ways?” Many people think being rich is dependent on the context.

A man in the village who has enough to feed his family and have money leftover, may seem obscenely rich to neighbours that do not have enough.

What about someone such as the former richest man in the world, Bill Gates. He gained his wealth through hard work, then used his fortunes to create the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation, which gives money to researchers and NGOs. They want to help discover paediatric ARVs, microbicides, etc.

Wealth like that should not be punished, or should it? What will the punishment be? Are ‘Hail Marys’ and ‘Our Fathers’ enough to solve the problem? However, punishing those who pollute the environment does not seem like a bad plan.

If you drop litter on the street, then go to confession and the priest has you pick three bags of garbage that could be a useful way of curbing the trash problem in Kampala.

I would say the idea that dealing drugs is a sin is universally acceptable. I know many people who believe that those that deal in illegal drugs, especially to children, deserve the worst of the worst.

The idea that abortion is a sin on the same level as drug dealing and cross-generational sex may create a stir, especially among women’s rights advocates. Can you have a sin that is applicable only to women?

According to the Archbishop of Kampala, Cyprian Kizito Lwanga, in his Easter sermon: “All those sins are covered by the Ten Commandments. When you commit abortion, that is murder. One of the commandments says: ‘Thou shall not kill.’”

It is an ethical debate that has raged for a long time. When is a foetus actually a person, is a question that can lead to conversations that can last longer than I have space for, but having the word from the Vatican that abortion is a one-way ticket to hell, means women are likely to face more obstacles.

Same goes for those scientists who work in genetic and stem cell research. How does being told they will go to hell affect a scientist, who may not believe in hell anyway?

Engaging in cross-generational sex, is for the most part, a no brainer. Sex with someone much younger than you, especially if they are a minor, is wrong. The billboards towering over drivers at the Entebbe Road round-about asks it right: “Would you like this man to be with your teenage daughter? Then why are you with his?”

But what is a generation? What about some of those movie stars, for example Demi Moore, 45, has been married to Ashton Kutcher, 30, since 2005. Is that socially acceptable; is it acceptable in the eyes of God?

That leaves social injustice. Again I would suggest this one is easy; genocide, human rights abuses and inequality are all bad. Yet, who is held responsible for this?

There are many leaders on the African continent who are responsible for the horrific state some of their citizens live in. I am sure I do not need to mention names. Or can we all be held responsible for allowing injustice to happen?

If our neighbour is starving, is it our responsibility? What about bigger cases: The fighting in Southern Sudan or northern Uganda? If we are not actively participating in the resolution, should we be asking for forgiveness?

Christians are expected to avoid the original seven deadly sins by adhering to the seven holy virtues: chastity, abstinence, temperance, diligence, patience, kindness and humility.

These will also help with the new sins.
The Vatican website does not say much about the new sins. In fact, I could not find anything.

But all that aside, I am looking forward to a cleaner Kampala, fewer drug dealers, and a narrowing gap between the rich and the poor.

Wednesday, April 16, 2008

Not a joke

Today my trip back to Mengo (home) from the old taxi park (town) felt like the longest I had ever been on.

Directly behind me a Catholic and a born-again Christian (Pentecostal) were arguing, very loudly, over whose religion was right.

It went something like this:

“But I have been baptized and confirmed my faith, I go to confession, I don’t need to be born-again.” said the Catholic

“Yes, but you cannot ride on baptism alone, you need to tell Jesus personally that he is your Saviour…” said the Pentecostal.

I know this is sounding like the beginning of a bad joke, and I wish it was, but it isn't.

Their conversation grew louder and more heated.

“Your version of the bible is wrong,” was yelled out.

“Just repent, repent and be saved,” said other as she got out of the taxi.

Seriously people, for the most part you believe in the same thing – God Good, Jesus died, You were saved. You would think to hear an argument like that between one of the local Hare Krishna’s and a Christian, but nope – it’s all infighting.

I couldn’t get off the taxi fast enough, as I person from the argument that remained seemed bent on making sure everyone else knew he was right.

I want your Muzungu.

So I am sure you all remember my many rants on how difficult it is to be white in Uganda. Well the other day I learned something. It is far worse to be a friend to a white.

My friends here have been life savers, on more than one occasion they have stopped me from paying far to much money for transport, items, and groceries, they have taught me how to bargain, kept an eye out for pickpockets, and watched my bag when I carry my computer.

As it turns out boda riders and market vendors don’t like it when Ugandans tell muzungus the correct price.

My friends have faced some pretty nasty comments and rude statements, all of which aren’t worth repeating.

They also hear some pretty unrealistic questions and comments including but not limited to the following - translated from Luganda: (comments in the brackets my own additions)

“You, you give me that Muzungu.” (Oh, okay, here she is..)

“Where did you find that muzungu, where can I get one like her?” (The back corner of Owino, just look for the sign that says white women here.)

“You move from that seat, I want to sit next to the muzungu, I love her” (While riding a taxi, the comment came from a boda rider at a stage we were passing.)

“She is beautiful and healthy that muzungu, I will give you one dollar and you make her my wife.” (Seriously, only one dollar, a muzungu is worth much more than that – actually that’s what my friend said too.)

This list could go on, but you get the idea.

So to my friends who hear and take a lot of abuse on my behalf. Thanks.

Tuesday, April 15, 2008

Monday, April 14, 2008

Will you? No.

I was leaving the Surgery, the expat doctor’s office in Kampala. More on that as soon as I know. I’m feeling lousy and sure I look it. I flag down the first boda rider I see.

We sort out where I am going and the cost.

He is impressed I can do it all in Luganda.

“Where do you come from?”

Canada

“And you stay in Uganda?”

“Yes”

“Are you married?” This question comes up more times than I can count.

“No”

“You are single? Me too.”

“That’s nice” Honestly I just want to get there I feel gross and not so talkative.

“How old are you? Are you young?”

“I think I am young, 25”

“I’m 22.”

“Okay” We are getting closer, just a couple more minutes. He is quiet for about one of them then,

“Do you think a relationship is possible? You are beautiful. I need a white woman and a relationship between a white woman and an African man is good”

I nearly fall off the boda. That was the most direct proposition I have had yet. While recovering from the shock we pull up to the destination.

“No, a relationship is not possible”

I hand him my money as his face falls and walk away.

That was a new one.

Afraid of Needles

There was an interesting encounter when I moved across the border into the Democratic Republic of the Congo, and it wasn’t with the immigration officers. The immigration was lovely; they were excited that a solo-female traveler was coming into their country. I

My problem was with the Public Health Officer. It started innocently enough - she wanted proof of my yellow fever vaccine.

“Your yellow card,” she asked.

Excited about finally being able to show that I have it, I handed over my immunization book. She disappeared with it. I clear immigration and went looking for her.

She has my book open and is looking at the entry for Dukerol – an optional oral vaccination against traveler’s diarrhoea and cholera. My last dose was in October before I came. It’s good for 6 months to a year.

“It’s finished”

“Well, actually I’m covered for cholera for up to a year”

She shook her head.

“I will give you a new injection for it.”

I look at her in horror – as far as I know you can’t inject Dukerol.

“No injection, please, it’s an oral vaccination. I’m…”

Here I pause desperately trying to think of a way to politely say there is no way in hell I am letting a strange lady inject me with a strange liquid on the border of the Congo.

Her counter-part stepped in.

“She is afraid of needles,”

Ah! An easy out. “Yes, I’m afraid of needles.”

The lady looks doubtful; I explain I am only in the country for the day. She stares at me for a long time – I try to look equal parts fearful and honest. Fearful was easy.

She handed me my book, and I was free to go.

I was out of her office so fast, and didn’t look back.

Saturday, April 12, 2008

In the Congo, Democratic Republic of the,

When I was in the Congo, I became a point of interest. While walking from the Rwandan-Congolese border to the Conglese town of Bukavu I passed two truck loads of UN soldiers from Pakistan.

I realized one of them was holding a camera and taking a picture of me. I started laughing. I come to the Congo, the ‘heart of darkness,’ the off-limits territory, to see what I can see, and prove it is safe, and I become the oddity. There is a certain level of irony to that.

I ended up posing for photos with each of the 8 men in the two jeeps. Then a few posed in a picture for me.

And believe it or not that wasn’t even the strangest part of the day.

Crossing into Rwanda

The 3a.m. bus to Kigali is ridiculously cold. Why in the middle of the night, the air conditioning needs to be running full blast I will never figure out.

This bus begins to warm up just after the border crossing between Uganda and Rwanda. About the same time the driver had turned off the air conditioning. By the time we arrived in Kigali the bus was stifling hot and had no air movement at all.

Can’t win

The other point of interest is the kids along the roadway asking for ‘Renzori, Renzori.’ They want leftover bottled water. The get dangerously close to the bus as it rushes past at 60 kph, their hands out stretched.

And if they noticed me sitting at the back on the aisle, it led to shrieks of ‘Muzungu, Renzori’ and they would give chase for a few hundred metres.

At first the calls for the water made me curious, then I realized these 8,9, and 10-year-old kids are out all day collecting firewood or whatever, they are probably really thirsty. As much as I wanted to help, I couldn’t bring myself to chuck ¾ empty bottles of water out the windows.

Monday, April 7, 2008

14 Years Ago Today

14 years ago today was the begining of the genocide in Rwanda. Hatred incited by propaganda stired years of discontent and the feeling of inequality. When the violence started it left hundreds of thousands of people dead in 100 days.

I have seen movies, read Shake Hands with the Devil and Sunday by the pool in Kigali, and heard lectures up Romeo Dallire. But it didn't prepare me for the feeling of walking among people in a country where just over a decade ago they were killing each other. It wasn't a feeling of fear but that of curiosity. I want to know how each person I meet was affected, I want to ask about scars I see. I want to understand how it can happen.

The is much hope for the future though because Rwandans and most of the world wants to understand too.

Today, memorial services were held at sites all over the country. On the trip from Kigali to Butare we passed entire communities walking together to memorial sites, draped in purple and carrying placards that read 'never again'.

As I walked to the Murambi memorial site, I passed what must have been all the communites in the surrounding area. There were hundreds, if not thousands of people. As I walked along, many of the people, who likely lost loved ones, stopped to shake my hand and thank me for coming.

It was very humbling. Thanking me because I was coming 14 years later to witness what they experienced.

Murambi was a high school, where Tutsi's had been told to gather, and it is where they were attacked.

50, 000 people were killed.

There bodies were preserved with powdered lime so they are still in tact. Children sized skeletons with splits in the skulls, adults with missing feet.

There is really not much else to say except, "Never Again" and mean it.

Saturday, April 5, 2008

Fetching Water

National Water shut off the water to my neighbourhood this morning. No warning. I woke up, went to fill my jerry can – because the landlord still doesn’t have water in my apartment – and there was no water.

I’m trying to think the uproar the people of Dean Park or Oak Bay would be in, if BC Hydro suddenly decided to replace the pipe and so turned off the water.

Anyway I did not have a drop of useable water and I am too cheap to use bottled water to bathe.

What’s a girl to do?

Well, me thinking I am all tough and an African woman, I grab my 20L jerry can and follow the masses of women and children all carrying empty yellow cans towards the end of the street, where I have never explored.

One of the women invites me to walk with her, so I tag along. It’s a beautiful walk down this long hill, but as we are chatting and suddenly I realize we have been walking for the better part of 10 mins… downhill.

We cut through some yards, and down the side of a small cliff, and then we could hear children’s laughter along with rushing water.

The woman I’m walking with wades into the water to fill my jerry can as the water shoots out of a pipe protruding from the side of a hill. She doesn’t want me to get wet.

She hoists the full can up the hill, as easily as she took it down empty, then begins to fill her own. She tells me to get started that she will catch up.

Let me tell you something I learned. 20L of water is really, very heavy. It is not as easy as all those women, with the jerry cans balanced on their heads, make it look. What faced me next was a 20 min walk up hill.

Walk 20 steps, stop, rest. Start again. It didn’t take long for my friend to catch up, overtake me, and leave me in the distance.

But, you know what? I gained respect. Everyone I passed said something. Well Done Muzungu. Hey Muzungu are you tired? Muzungu, you are fetching water? Good Job. The kids just laughed as girls half my size, blew past me their jugs on their head.

And when I finally made it home, and got the jerry can up the steps to my flat, I was really proud of myself. Carrying that much water home, was a pretty big sense of accomplishment, and a tiny look at what many families go through daily.

I’ll tell you what else; no water suddenly makes you realize the value of water. That night I finished a load of laundry, bathed, flushed the toilet, and cleaned the floor where I had tracked in mud, with less than 10 L.

I am exhausted, I have blisters, I am VERY glad the water is back in my compound (although not in my apartment), but I would do the walk again in a heartbeat.

Wednesday, April 2, 2008

Cockroaches

Cockroaches, why did it have to be cockroaches?

Seriously Indiana Jones' fear of snakes came nothing to my paralyzing fear of so many cockroaches.

In fact as we walked into my new apartment after the first (of three) days of fumigating, another line from Indiana Jones came to mind. This quote was from the movie, Temple of Doom.

“The floor, it feels like I am walking on fortune cookies.”

And in my case, just like that one, it wasn’t fortune cookies. The crunching was bug carcases. Nearly two full, small grocery bags and two days later, I couldn’t take it anymore and called in the professionals.

I sponsored a genocide, there was not a living insect in that house when he was done.

A good scrubbing, and a white-wash job that would have made Huckleberry Finn proud and the place looks liveable.

Although I am sure the first night in my apartment I will have nightmares of the cockroaches climbing/falling out of the door-frames and dying on my floor.

The following picture is not for the squeamish.

I would like to point out that until more than one of the ones that survived the first round began crawling up my leg, I handled it all well. Then I had a completely muzungu-girl style freak-out! Complete with hyperventilating, crying and screaming. Then I calmed down, went inside and continued to clean.

Disappointment

Disappointment is stealing a brown envelope from the pocket of a muzungu woman as she fights to get through a jam of taxis packed so tightly there is hardly room to move, to find it contains only sh 3,000 in change.

Yes, today I was pick pocketed to the tune of $1.76 Can. As I was trying to push my way though the jam, one guy spent a little long pushed up against me. By the time I realized he wasn't just trying to cop a feel, he was long gone.

Could have been worse my cell phone was in the other pocket. It is the first time in all my travels it has happened and for sure, if that is the worst that happens to me, then I am lucky.

Whoever it was I hope he uses the money to feed his family.

Tuesday, April 1, 2008

Great Job

So the other night I met two people who had possibly two of the greatest jobs ever. One is a pilot and the other is crew on the UN cargo planes. They are the ones that make sure the food drops land on the X and provide necessities for people in conflict zones where trucks can't make it in.

The part I find interesting, their not in it for the good of what they are doing, they are in it for the money.

Apparently flying in regions where you can be shot at pays well.

It takes me back to Helen Fielding's Checklist for aid workers:
A. Mercenary
B. Missionary
C. Misfit
D. Broken Hearted

Everyone out here falls into one of these categories.